Big-Wave Legend Shane Dorian Talks Hunting, Surfing, Fatherhood, and More

Clara T. Fryman

[This piece was initially printed as “Wisdom” in SURFER’s summertime 2020 difficulty, on newsstands now. To subscribe to SURFER, click on here.]

It’s entirely probable to journey a wave so massive and so extreme that you just wander absent from the sport afterward. I never think I could at any time do it as dramatically as Greg Noll, but it has occurred to me. Each and every winter season I evaluate my state of mind and ponder if this will be the yr I’ll paddle out at Jaws and decide that that’s it, I never want nearly anything to do

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