With their resilient design, fascinating military services record, and timeless fantastic appears to be, dive watches are catnip for collectors—and fertile ground for watchmakers much too. Watchmakers are often getting new ways to reinterpret tradition, but actually recreating a vintage look at is a tricky balancing act amongst outdated and new. That is what will make the Jacques Bianchi JB200 so particular: It is a remake of a special, minimal-edition dive look at utilised by the French Navy, and it preserves the character and record of the original even though adding some fashionable updates.



The story begins in 1982, when French watchmaker Jacques Bianchi unveiled the original JB200. With its 42mm stainless-metal situation, significant indices, and French-produced quartz motion, it was a rugged, dependable dive look at. It also had some special attributes, including a winding crown at the nine o’clock position and a significant image of a diver that dominated its sleek black dial. Originally, only a hundred designs ended up produced.

A number of a long time handed, and the look at captivated the notice of the French Navy. The federal government agency liable for acquiring military services devices purchased all-around 60 watches for military services use. Facts about exactly who wore them is minimal, but many thanks to some sleuthing and comprehensive reviews of maintenance records, it appears these early JB200s ended up set to use on the wrists of divers aboard helicopters and patrol ships.

Jacques Bianchi JB200
Courtesy Image


The new look at carries over several of the hallmarks of its predecessor. It retains the 42mm stainless metal situation with the remaining-side crown (and the drinking water resistance—it’s rated to 200 meters). The style and design of the hands—stick for several hours, arrow for minutes, and “square lollipop” for seconds—remains the identical, and, of program, the iconic image of the diver on the dial returns as properly. Just one glance at this look at tells you all the things you need to have to know: It is produced for the drinking water.

Even now, the new JB200 isn’t an precise duplicate it arrives with some tasteful updates. Some of these improvements make an presently legible look at even simpler to go through. The day window from the original has been dropped, letting for a clearer, a lot more symmetric dial, and the circle and block indices have been enlarged marginally. They, along with the palms and bezel markers, have also been upgraded with Super-LumiNova for outstanding brightness and legibility in minimal-light conditions.

Curiously, the designers opted for retro tech to electric power the new JB200. In area of the original timepiece’s quartz motion, they swapped in a Seiko NH35 mechanical motion with computerized winding. That gives this new look at a vintage experience that even the ’80s original did not very have.

The JB200 is absolutely funded on Kickstarter, but you can back again it for a discounted rate on the look at. Accomplished watches are estimated to ship in December 2021, and you can get a lot more data on the Jacques Bianchi web site.

[$709 kickstarter.com]

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